However, the challenge is how to protect your fingers from injury when using an axe to chop kindling. Caution: Never hold the board with one hand while chopping it with the other. You don’t want to end up needing both hands to order four beers! In this week’s video, I show how to make a simple tool that will keep your free hand well away from danger as you swing the axe.

Start by cutting a handle from a narrow strip of wood; be sure it’s at least 14 inches long. Next, drive a 1 5/8-inch drywall screw through one end of the handle. When you’re ready to split a board into kindling, simply set the tip of the drywall screw on top of the board, then tap the screw head with the blunt end of the axe. Now, hold the end of the handle and begin chopping the board into thin strips of kindling.

Note that this technique can be used when chopping kindling from scrap lumber or from a piece of split firewood. Just be sure never to burn pressure-treated wood or lumber that’s painted or stained.

Hope this tip keeps you warm—and safe—throughout this winter. Thanks for watching!

The smart lock shown in the video is the LockStar Smart Door Lock, which is powered by four AA batteries. The deadbolt locks automatically when you close the door, and can be opened with a four-digit code, cell phone app, key fob, or your thumbprint. And if the batteries die, you can unlock the deadbolt with a standard key.

If you’re at all concerned with home security, or are just looking for a super-convenient way to control the comings and goings at your house, I highly recommend a smart lock. It’s a great solution for pet sitters, babysitters, house sitters, and home rentals. Hope you enjoy this video and, as always, thanks for your support!

The second technique is to use a biscuit joiner (also called a plate joiner) to cut slots in boards to accept flat, football-shaped splines, known as a biscuits. Biscuit joints are glued together; no screws or nails needed.

If you’re not familiar with these wood-joinery techniques, I encourage you to give one or both of these tools a try. I’m sure they’ll become your new, favorite way to join together wood parts. And stay tuned to the end of the video for a Bonus Tip on buying and dispensing wood glue. Thanks for watching!

It’s a long and diverse list, including kitchen remodeling costs, removing carpeting, choosing paint for a porch ceiling, restoring rusty tools, silencing squeaky floors, dealing with low water pressure, using a pocket-hole jig, bath remodeling costs, cleaning tile grout, cabinet refinishing vs. cabinet refacing, clearing a clogged sink drain, finding reliable contractors, how often to replace HVAC filters, the correct way to stain softwood, using a biscuit joiner, how to keep water pipes from freezing, how to sanitize a bathroom sink drain, the best place to add insulation, making a nontoxic weed killer, and the basic toolkit for novice DIY homeowner.

I hope you enjoy this week’s video and find it useful in maintaining your home and yard. And, as always, thanks for your continued support!

I hope enjoy this look back at some of our most popular videos, and be sure to stay tuned to the end for some silly surprises, including a retrospective glance back at my co-star, Will. (Or am I his co-star?)

And thanks for your continued support throughout the year; we couldn’t have done it without you. Cheers!

Most Christmas trees dry out and start dropping needles within a week or so, even if you keep the tree stand filled with water, and here’s why: As soon as a live tree is cut down, sticky sap starts to leach out of the fresh cut. The sap then dries and seals up the cut end, greatly reducing the tree’s ability to absorb water. So, here’s the two-step approach to keeping your tree fresh:

Before setting the tree into the tree stand, use a saw to make a fresh cut, removing about 1-1/2 inches from the end of tree. Next, take a drill with a 1/4-inch-diameter bit and drill a hole as deeply as possible straight up through the center of the tree trunk. Then, immediately place the tree in the stand and fill the reservoir with water.

The combination of the fresh cut and center hole allows the tree to suck up water like a sponge; just keep an eye on the water level to ensure the reservoir never runs dry. And stay tuned to the end of the video for a Bonus Tip on how to make a decorative Christmas tree from a couple of wire tomato towers.

Teo and I hope these tips help make your holiday season just a bit more fun and festive. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to All!

In this week’s video, I show how to seal up two places where mice often get into a home: the garage door and an exterior entry door. To block an oversize gap alongside a garage door, install sheet metal guards. Simply place the metal guard over the gap and screw it to the side jamb. In our case, the gap was pretty long, so we needed to install two guards.

At the entry door, I found that the mice had chewed clear through the bottom of the wooden side jamb. So, I first stuffed some stainless steel wool into the hole, and then sprayed in some expanding foam sealant. Unlike standard spray foam, Pestblock contains capsaicin, which is the ingredient that makes hot peppers hot. Most mice will turn away from the spicy sealant, but any that don’t, will be stopped by the steel wool.

I hope that you find these tips helpful, and that you don’t have any surprise visitors this winter! Thanks, as always, for your support.

Start by adding 1/2 cup of baking soda to a small bowl. Then pour in 1/4 cup of hydrogen peroxide, followed by one tablespoon of Dawn dish soap. Mix well and then use a grout brush to scrub the cleaning solution into the stained grout. Wait 10 minutes or so, then scrub again for a few minutes.

Wipe the surface clean with paper towels or a sponge. Allow the grout to fully dry before using a narrow artist’s paintbrush to apply two coats of clear silicone sealer.

I hope you find this tip useful, and be sure to stay tuned to the end of the video for a Bonus Tip on the differences between authentic stone tile, and porcelain tile that resembles stone. And as always, thanks for watching!  

In this week’s video, I share a quick tip that’ll make salvaging moldings much less work. After prying off the moldings you’ll notice that many of the nails will pull out of the wall and be embedded in the molding. Resist the temptation to use a hammer to pound the nails through from the back side. That’ll cause splintering and chipping on the finished face of the trim, which you’ll then have to repair. Instead, grab a pair of locking pliers or end-cutting snips, and pull the finishing nails out through the back of the trim. That’ll eliminate any chance of damaging to the face of the molding.

Hope you find this tip helpful, and as always, thanks for watching!

Start by cutting a strip of wood or plywood that’s the same width as the power strip, and 2 or 3 inches longer. Next, prepare to mount the power strip to the wood strip; be sure the power strip is flush with one end of the wood strip. If your power strip has mounting tabs on each end, simply drive a short screw through each tab and into the wood strip. Otherwise, remove the tiny screws from each side of the power strip and remove its backplate. If the backplate doesn’t have any mounting holes, drill two 3/16-in.-dia. holes through the backplate, positioning them about an inch or so from each end of the plate. Fasten the backplate to the wood strip with two short screws, then set the outlet strip back in place on top of the backplate and secure it with the tiny screws removed earlier.

Next, drill a 1/4-in.-dia. hole through the tongue end of the wood strip. Hold the power strip horizontally against the side of an overhead joist, and secure it by driving a 1 1/2-in.-long sheet-metal screw, with washer, through the hole in the tongue and into the joist. Tighten the screw just enough to hold the power strip in place, but not so tight that you can’t move it. Plug the power strip’s power cord into a nearby electrical outlet.

Now, when you need to use the power strip, just reach up, swing it down to the vertical position, and you’re ready to plug in your tools and accessories.

I hope you find this tip helpful. And as always, thanks for watching!

Here, are the three tips:

Protect the Paper—The sander has two spring-loaded clamps—one in the front, another in the rear—that hold the sandpaper tightly against the sanding pad. Therefore, the sandpaper edges at the front and rear are neatly tucked under the clamps. However, on each side of the sander, the edges of the sandpaper are exposed, and susceptible to catching on a splinter and tearing. So, when sanding close to the edge of a board or piece of plywood, be sure to lead with the front or rear of the tool, which will protect the exposed edges of the sandpaper.

Round Over Sharp Edges—One of the most common uses of an orbital finishing sander is to knock off (round over) sharp edges of boards. However, you can save a considerable amount of time and sandpaper by first using a block plane to remove most of the wood. Then, finish rounding over and smoothing the edge with the orbital sander.

Stack the Sheets—The final tip is to put multiple sheets of sandpaper onto the sander. That way, when one sheet wears out or rips, you can simply tear it off to expose a fresh piece of sandpaper, and keep on sanding. This will save you from having to continuously stop to install a new piece of sandpaper.

I hope you find these tips useful next time you’re using your orbital finishing sander. And stay tuned to the end of the video for a Bonus Tip on how vibration-absorbing gloves can greatly reduce fatigue and soreness. Thanks for watching!

In each case, the magic ingredient is distilled white vinegar. Even though it’s only about 5% acidic, white vinegar is plenty strong enough to cut through all sorts of grime, grease and corrosion. Hope you find these tips helpful in keeping your home in tiptop shape!

And stay tuned at the end of the video for a Bonus Tip on the proper way to use a plunger to unclog a sink drain. Thanks, as always, for your support.

Most 3/4-in.-thick plywood is actually only 11/16 or 21/32 in. thick. Now that might not seem like much, but it can be critical when constructing a drawer or cabinet to fit snugly into a space. So, when setting one plywood part between two others—such as when placing a drawer back between the two drawer sides—here’s how to measure for a perfect fit: Let’s say you’re building a 10-in.-wide drawer. Clamp together the two plywood drawer sides, then set the 10 in. graduation line of your tape measure on the edge of the clamped together parts. Now simply read the dimension on the opposite edge, and cut the drawer back to that size.

Nominal plywood dimensions also come into play when routing dados, grooves, rabbets and other wood joints. For example, if you use a 3/4-in. straight bit to rout a dado to accept a 3/4-in. plywood shelf, the shelf won’t fit tightly into the dado because it’s not actually 3/4 in. thick. Avoid this problem by cutting the dado with an undersized plywood bit, which is specifically made to produce tight-fitting plywood joints.

I hope these tips help elevate your woodworking skills!

So, in this week’s video, I share a quick tip for removing just a teeny, tiny bit of wood to ensure a perfect fit. Start by lowering the saw blade all the way down, then slide the board tightly against the body of the blade; be sure you’re not against the teeth of the blade.

Next, while firmly holding the board in place, raise the blade, squeeze the trigger and make the cut. What you’ll find is that the blade removes a nearly microscopic amount of wood, and here’s why: The tungsten-carbide teeth protrude just slightly beyond the body of the blade. By butting the end of the board against the blade body—not the teeth—you’re cutting away just a tiny bit of wood. Now, depending on how much you need to trim off, you may need to repeat this tip two or three times, but at least you’ll reduce the chance of lopping off too much wood.

I hope you find this technique handy the next time you need to trim a board for an exact fit. Thanks, as always, for your support.

Now you might be wondering what’s to know: shake the can, press the tip and start spraying. Well, that’s certainly one approach, but that doesn’t mean it’s the correct or best way to spray paint. In order to consistently produce a smooth, flawless finish, you’ll need to know a few simple solutions and trade secrets. For example, here are a few of the tips from this week’s video:

• Use an auxiliary handle to reduce fatigue and increase control

• Hold the spray-paint can 10 to 12 inches from the surface

• Start and stop spraying off of the surface

• Spray perfectly parallel to the surface; don’t swing your arm in an arc

• Apply two to three lights coats of paint, and lightly sand between coats

• Immediately after spraying, wipe the spray tip clean to prevent clogging

• To get every drop of paint out of the can, align the spray tip with the dot on the top of the can

I hope that these tips and techniques come in handy next time you use a can of spray paint. And thanks, as always, for your support!

Start by pouring into a microwavable bowl equal parts of water and distilled white vinegar. Drop a wooden toothpick into the bowl, which will help break the surface tension of the hot water/vinegar mixture. If you don’t, the hot liquid could splash onto your skin when you remove the bowl after heating.

Set the bowl in the microwave and turn it on high for four minutes. When the time is up, use potholders to take the bowl out of the oven, then remove the toothpick. Now, dip a scouring sponge into the water/vinegar solution and wipe down the inside walls, floor and ceiling of the microwave. And don’t forget to also scrub the interior surface of the door. What you’ll find is that the hot, acidic steam created inside the oven will soften any caked-on spills, so they wipe away easily. If any stubborn stains remain, repeat the steam-cleaning for another four minutes.

Hope you like this tip, and thanks so much for watching!

Hard water is water that has elevated levels of dissolved minerals, specifically magnesium and calcium. And while these minerals don’t affect the taste, smell or potability of water, they can be problematic just the same.

Hard water prevents soaps, shampoos and detergents from lathering up, resulting in dry skin, limp hair and dingy laundry. And in extreme cases, crusty mineral deposits can build up around faucets, showerheads and other plumbing fixtures.

Here’s how to conduct a rudimentary hard-water test: Take a clean 16-ounce water bottle, add 1/2 cup of tap water and 10 drops of liquid dish soap. Tighten the cap and vigorously shake the bottle for about 20 seconds. If a thick head of lather forms on top of the water, then your water is probably not hard. However, if the water turns cloudy with very little lather, then the water likely contains elevated mineral levels and you should have the water professionally tested at a lab. And if ultimately you discover that the water is hard, consider installing a water softener.

Hope you find this tip helpful and thanks, as always, for your support!

Thin trim is usually attached with small finishing nails, which require predrilling the pilot holes with a tiny 1/16-inch drill bit. The problem is that a bit that small is notoriously fragile; it doesn’t take much to snap it in two. So, rather than using a tiny drill bit, drill the pilot hole with one of the finishing nails.

Simply chuck the nail into the drill, just as you would a drill bit, and then use moderate pressure and medium speed to drill the pilot holes. If the drill’s chuck doesn’t securely hold the nail, snip off the nail’s head to create a smooth shaft for the chuck’s jaws to grip onto.

I hope you find this tip helpful the next time you’re nailing up thin pieces of trim. And be sure to stay tuned to the end of the video for a Bonus Tip on buying and applying wood glue. Thanks for your support!

Start by testing the alkalinity of the soil: Scoop some soil into a clean container and add 1/2 cup of distilled white vinegar. Mix well and see what happens. If the soil starts to fizz, then the alkaline level is too high and you must amend the soil with sulfur. If there’s no reaction, then conduct a second test to see if the soil is too acidic.

Add some soil to a clean container, then sprinkle in 1/2 cup of baking soda and mix well. Next, pour in 1/2 cup of water. If the soil starts to fizz and bubble, then the acidity is too high and you must amend the soil with pulverized lime.

The easiest way to add amendments to your lawn or garden is with either a walk-behind drop spreader or handheld broadcast spreader.

I hope you like this tip and it helps you grow the happiest, healthiest lawn and garden in the whole neighborhood! Thanks for your support.

Start by drilling a pilot hole, which you should do regardless of whether the screw is brass or not. Then, and here’s the real trick, drive into the pilot hole a steel screw that’s the same size as the brass screw. Since steel is much stronger than brass, there’s no worry of it snapping. Next, back out the steel screw to reveal a hole that’s threaded to accept the brass screw. Now you can easily drive in the brass screw with much less pressure, so there’s no fear of it snapping in two.

Hope you find this tip helpful next time you’re installing decorative brass hardware. And please stay tuned to the end of the video for a Bonus Tip on using no-mortise hinges. Thanks for your support!